Build Guide

 We are very happy to answer any queries/question concerning your Triking build by phone or email, please don’t hesitate to contact us we are available 7 days a week.

The following guide is not definitive; it is simply our suggestion and is essentially the way we build a Triking. Naturally the constructor is entirely at liberty to carry out the work as they choose.

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The Triking kit and its components are designed and constructed in such a way as to ensure straightforward assembly and assist the builder. No sophisticated techniques or specialist tools are needed, simply a careful methodical, practical approach. Due to the nature of the design there is significant scope for the builder to incorperate their own bespoke features into the build process.

IMG_0936aIt helpful to support the chassis on axle stands or trestles with the chassis floor at approx knee height, this allows good working access to the majority of components.

The following procedure assumes all necessary parts are ready to fit and/or reconditioned if needed at the builders discretion.

A Triking kit supplied by us will have all ancillary parts (where practical) LOOSELY FITTED . to adjoining parts. This is primarily to assist the builder in the correct location of components and also as a parts check.

Where practical parts supplied by Triking such as exhaust pipes, misc brackets etc are provided longer than necessary to allow the builder the option of trimming the component to their desired fit.

The body shell, bonnet and boot will require minor trimming and fettling, smoothing down of rough edges etc. The most critical areas are where the fibre glass makes contact with the chassis, and the bonnet and boot lid/tail section mating faces, these need to be finished to a consistent uniform surface. To achieve this it is usually necessary to trial fit the body to the chassis several times, noting the areas that need attention then removing material as required with the body removed. This is easier with two people. This operation can actually be carried out at any stage of the build but if done before the majority of the mechanical work, avoids contamination of potentially sensitive parts with fibre glass dust etc.

Tip1a2

Place inside the centre tunnel, in their approximate locations –  front to rear brake pipe, wiring loom, battery/starter motor cable and (depending on model of engine used) fuel lines, fuel pump, filter etc, A selection of holes are provided through front and rear bulkheads – this is to provide versatility for different components and varying locations – not all the holes will be required,the unused holes can be blanked with suitable grommets if desired. Once locations of all relavent components are finalised they can be secured ,   ensure all cables, hoses and all associated fittings are secured with “P” clips ,cable ties or similar and are not kinked or deformed. Use grommets or sleeveing where any cable/hose/pipe passes through or may contact any sharp edge or rough surface,

Fit front and rear brake master cylinders, in some installations (depending on brake system specification) there is a difference in cylinder bore size, where this is the case the larger bore cylinder feeds the rear brake, irrespective of the connection the cylinders can actually be fitted either way left or right as the bias adjustment can accomodate either position.

Fit steering rack and steering column (these may be loosely fitted if supplied by us). The steering column height can easily be adjusted if desired using washers or spacers between the column mount and the chassis rails, the lateral location can be adjusted by elongating the fixing holes in the mounting bracket or the chassis rails. Note, set the steering rack and lower column angle in such a way as to ensure sufficient access to the brake master cylinders.

Build_1015_006In the case of a non reverse gear model assuming the drive shaft has been fitted by Triking, (prior to fitting the engine and gear box or the rear fork) ensure the 6 x grub screws located in the 3 drive shaft bearings are loose enough to allow longitudinal  movement of the shaft. After the engine /gearbox and rear fork assembly’s have been installed check there is equal free play at each end of the drive shaft, the easiest way to do this is by moving it as far as possible in one direction then marking its position, then move it as far as possible in the opposite direction, finally tighten the grub screws when the shaft is at the half way position.

In the case of a reverse gear model- Fit the front and rear drive shaft bearings to the inside face of front and rear bukheads followed by the front and rear drive shafts (the shorter one to the front) slide the shafts as far as possible in their respective directions , fit the 2 circlips to the grroves in the splined ends of the driveshafts, Fit bushes to the reversing gearbox (they are a press fit) approx equal distance from each end of the bush to the face of the casing , the precise location of the bush is not critical provided both bushes are in the same position, Fit the reversing gearbox into the chassis. Slide the drive shafts back towards the reversing gearbox until the flanges meet. Ensure the drive shaft flanges are correctly located on the reversing gear box and that the bolts are tightened. If neccessary shim washers can be added to the upper and/or lower mountings to adjust the location.  Add the necessary quantity of gear oil to the reversing gearbox ( grade EP80/90 or similar for standard road use or ATF or similar for competition). The lower most hex head bolt in the left hand side of the reversing gear box is a drain plug and the socket head bolt above it is a combined level and filler plug. The filler and drain plugs are accessable through the slot in the left hand side wall of the transmission tunnel.

Build_1015_009It may be necessary to elongate the mounting holes in the chassis where the self aligning drive shaft bearings fix, adjust as necessary the lateral location of the bearings to establish correct alignment and location of the two universal joints and /or the lateral location of the rear swing arm. lateral location of the swing arm is achieved by simply adjusting the retaining bolts on their threads, The std Guzzi swing arm/gearbox gator should be fitted between the swing arm and the Triking chassis -it can be secured with ho cable ties.  After the rear swing arm is fitted check to make sure Build_TRK_1015_006the drive shaft rotates freely by turning the shaft or rear drive / wheel by hand, repeat the check whilst moving the rear swing arm throughout its normal range of suspension travel. (this is easiest to do with one or both ends of the rear shocks disconnected) It is good practice to fit a dust/debris seal between the std Guzzi swing arm and the Triking chassis to protect any exposed thread or shaft on the swing arm retaining bolts, a suitable seal can be fashioned from a universal type steering rack gator or CV joint boot, if the seal is made slightly over long its natural convoluted design will retain a constant sealing pressure once fitted in place.

Build_1015_008Fit engine and gear box, as one unit, it is helpfull to temporarily tie the clutch operation arm back to the gearbox with a cable tie or similar which can then be removed once the engine is fitted. use shim washers (supplied) to ensure engine and gear box is a snug fit between mounting bosses, this is extremely important as the engine and gear box are stressed members of the chassis. In the case of a powder coated chassis it is worth checking / removing any excess coating that may have built up on the face of the mounting bosses ,this can sometimes be mis-leading as it makes the engine and gearbox appear a tighter fit than it really is. Ensure correct engagement of universal joint to drive shaft spline. There is no need to fit any external cover to the front universal joint as unlike the rear it does not have any critical exposed surfaces. Apply heavy grease to the splines. Once engine and gearbox are fitted in place check rotation of the drive shafts by turning the shaft or rear drive / wheel by hand to make sure there are no interferrence areas such as the front universal joint which is very close to the chassis bulkhead, if neccessary loosen the drive shaft bearing securing bolts and adjust the location of the bearing untill the desired clearance is achieved. The cranked Moto Guzzi motorcycle gear lever found directly on the rear of the std Guzzi gearbox is turned through 180 degrees (when viewed from above) so that it is in line with the access hole in the top of the chassis, the standard Moto Guzzi connecting rod can be used to connect the Moto Guzzi gearlever to the Triking gear linkage, in some cases the Moto Guzzi rod will need to be extended by approx 15mm, this can easily be done using a long bolt or 6mm studding. The std Moto Guzzi airbox can be used but requires extensive modification to clear the Triking bonnet – a far simpler neater solution is to fit good quality aftermarket individual air filters (such as K&N etc) Engine ancilliaries such as ECU (where applicable) relays,fuses etc can be fitted to the front and upper face of the glovebox, Alternatively/additionally a simple flat section of aluminium or similar  can be fitted to the passenger side of the tunnel foreward of the glovebox. We usually fit the ignition coils to the front right hand side of the bulkhead ,next to the gear linkage bellcrank It is generally good practice for sensitive electrical components to be mounted on “rubber” type mounts or bobbins to protect them from vibration. Some Moto Guzzi regulator / rectifiers require an earth and act as a heat sink through their case – so these type of parts can be rigidly mounted direct to steel chassis panels.

Fit rear swinging arm assembly and shock absorbers, the left hand shock absorber top mount requires shim washers to be fitted to achieve an upright position of the shock absorber.; apply heavy grease to the driveshaft spline and ensure correct engagement of the universal joint to the drive shaft spline. In the case of a non reverse gear model the drive shaft will have 5 to 10mm end float, as a guide secure the drive shaft using the grub screws in the bearings at a point approx central of its longitudinal movement.

Fit fuel tank. drill chassis to accept M6 bolts to align with holes in the tank mounting brackets, (tank can be used as a template) apply silicone sealer or rubber/foam mat to the mating faces between the tank and chassis to prevent fretting, or ingress of debris ; at this stage it is helpful to check the clearance height and location of the filler neck through the boot lid. The fuel lines, battery cable, wiring harness and front to rear brake pipe can now be connected and secured to the chassis inside the tunnel as necessary with “P” clips or tie wraps etc, the fuel pump regardless of carburettor or EFI type, should be mounted low down and near to the fuel tank, we usually fit them inside the transmission tunnel on the rearmost cross-member, Fit a pre-filter between the tank outlet and the fuel pump, Injection filers and pressure regulators etc can be fitted anywhere convenient in the relevent fuel line, consider that filters are a service item and will need good access for future maintenance.  Fit rear wheel,apply heavy grease to the drive spline, and connect rear brake. Please note in the case of using a later model (typically post 2002Moto Guzzi rear swing arm) it may be necessary to cut an access hole or aperture in the left hand light pod area of the rear body shell to allow extraction of the rear wheel spindle. This is best done after the body is fitted to the chassis but before it is painted. If desired a covering panel can be fashioned from thin aluminium or similar. This is not neccessary if fitting the Type 3 body which has a removable tail section.

Build_1015_004Fit hand brake lever to transmission tunnel, drill 2 x 6.5mm fixing holes, the trim/tunnel cover can be used as an approximate indicator for the location of the lever. Fit hand brake cable to rear brake caliper .Exact fixing varies according to model, essentially there are 2 basic arrangements either the original Guzzi donor caliper can be retained and an additional mechanical caliper added to provide the handbrake function or  hydro mechanical calliper  can be fitted to provide rear wheel brake and handbrake function. In either case  due to the extensive variations in Guzzi rear wheel /disc/fork fittings a suitable bracket will usually need to be modified to suit. (a generic mounting bracket is supplied with a std Triking kit) Fit outer cable support bracket inside tunnel. The std caliper supplied by Triking is a combined road brake/ parking brake type this is suitable for all Guzzi wheel and brake disc combinations,  It is not recommended that this caliper is used with the Triking 15″ rear wheel conversions as clearance is very tight due to the bulk of the caliper. For the 15″ type wheels Triking supply a lightweight competition type combined caliper.

Fit pedal assembly, drill 4 x 6.5 mm holes in the chassis floor for the fixing bolts, (use pedal assembly base plate as template) the pedal assembly can be located in a position chosen by the builder to suit driving position. The master cylinder  pushrods will tolerate a moderate operating angle (up to approx 5 degrees) so do not need to be perfectly straight. If a significantly different pedal position is required the pushrods can be shortened or extended with longnuts (stud connectors) and bolts/studding, naturally care should be taken to ensure sufficient strength is retained as they are safety critical parts.

IMG_0109The brake pedal has adjustable bias front to rear, this should initially be set to approx 70% front and 30% rear. The bias adjustment bar should be locked using the spacer and 2 x lock nuts, any excess length of the bias bar may need to be removed (cut off) to ensure adequate clearance to the adjacent pedals. The brake bias will probably need to be finally set once the car is driven.

Fit engine ancillaries (depending on model of engine) air filters, breather, throttle linkage / cable and clutch cable etc. Note most Moto Guzzi motorcycles utilise the frame as an engine breather, so in the case of fitment to a triking an alternative Build_TRK_1015_003breather needs to be arranged, this is essentially just a container with the neccessary connections in place,A simple breather can be constructed from steel / alloy etc. (Triking can supply a suitable breather and mounting bracket)  Throttle and clutch cables can be used from the Moto Guzzi donor motorcycle but they will usually require modification/shortening. The throttle cable can be routed over the top of the engine and down to the pedal or down the right hand side and through the clutch operation arm access hole. Triking can supply a heavy duty cluch cable,  Fit complete exhaust system. When fitting / supporting the rearmost point of the exhaust system and/or silencers, the rear outer chassis bulkhead is re-enforced and can be drilled at any convenient position to create a suitable mounting point.

Note,  Triking exhaust header pipes forward sections are of different lengths

and should be fitted to opposing cylinder heads resulting in symmetrical appearance.

 

Assemble front suspension bushes to wishbones, ensure the internal bore of the wishbone is clean and apply special grease (supplied). If necessary the bushes can heated with warm air or be immersed in boiling water to increase their flexibility, ensure no water remains present when the bush is inserted, Using a press/vice/pillar drill or similar press the bush through the wishbone untill each end settles against the wishbone boss cleanly, next apply grease to the centre bore of the bush and press the stainless steel centre sleeve into the bush .

Tip3 Front wheel balance

Fit front suspension, wheels and brakes. The front stub axles may need careful cleaning of the diameters at the wheel bearing fitting location with fine emery cloth or similar to achieve a good sliding fit with the wheel bearings. apply good quality grease to the bearings, the inner hub oil seal fits with the open side towards the wheel hub, When tightening the castellated nut which holds the wheel on it should be tightened just enough to remove discernable play when felt at the wheel – without causing undue drag as the wheel is rotated, Take care not to overtighten the nut,  Connect brake pipes and bleed brakes, ensure flexible brake lines are suitably protected from sharp edges and are not kinked or deformed,  Check that the two brake lines connected to the front brake calipers retain shape and route throughout the full left-to -right movement of the front wheels.   Copper (Kunifer) type brake lines should be protected where neccessary and secured with “P” clips, cable ties or similar.

When adjusting/setting front suspension a good starting point is 3mm negative camber measured at the tyre – an easy way to do this is using a simple large square with the Triking sitting on a flat floor, with the square touching the tyre at the bottom – adjust until there is approx. 3mm gap at the top.  Tracking can also be set by measuring at the tyres, When measured front and rear between the two front tyres – adjust the tracking until the distance at the front is 3mm less than the distance at the rear.

To adjust Triking fully adjustable type front suspension,,  First set tracking and camber as above then set desired amount of caster – approx. 7 degrees is good as an initial setting this can be checked by using a protractor or angle finder type gauge applied to the centre section of the front uprights. The caster can be adjusted by two methods – either shim washers and/or adjusting the rose joints on the upper wishbone inner fixings . A greater castor angle gives greater steering stability but makes the steering operation heavier and less responsive. A lesser castor angle gives lighter,quicker,more responsive steering but with decreased straight line stability. Suggested range of caster for a Triking is 4 -10 degrees   The standard (fixed) wishbones provide approx 5 degrees of caster. After any castor adjustments the camber and tracking should be re-checked and adjusted if necessary.

Fit headlights and front indicators, connect to wiring loom. We prefer to fit the indicators to the side of the headlight shell,this makes for tidy wiring and locates the indicator in the correct position.

Build_TRK_1015_005Fit dashboard to chassis using polyurethane adhesive,bolts or similar, The bottom edge of the dashboard should sit parallel with the bottom edge of the horizontal chassis rail,  (if glove box is specified) fit glove box- roughen mating surfaces to ensure a good key for the adhesive where relevent,  It the builder is cutting instrument and/or switch holes in the dashboard to their own desired location – It is helpfull initially to use templates of the instruments to give an indication of the best positioning, A temporary “dashboard” can be made from thin plywood or similar which can then be used to finalise component location  Note ,,there are some clearance issues on the rear of the dashboard with the chassis  frame, At this stage it is also worth considering any possible problems with other nearby components like windscreen wipers etc. Fit instruments to dashboard; connect wiring loom to instruments and warning lights, switches as necessary. In the case of utilising a harness or wiring loom from the donor bike some cables may need to be extended as necessary. In the case of fitting a Triking electronic speedo, it will be supplied with 2 small magnets which can be fitted to any rotating part, the easiest location is on a front brake disc, the Triking right hand front upright has a lug designed to accept the sensor which reads the magnets as the wheel rotates. the magnets can be attatched to the brake disc by placing them in position opposite each other, the brake disc bolts can be used as a guide,(they will stay in place due to their own magnetism) then smearing a light coating of epoxy resin over the top of the magnet to seal it in place, Alternatively 2 of the brake disc bolts can be replaced with hex head bolts which can have a slight recess (approx 2mm deep) machined into them to locate the magnet.

Connect all wiring where possible, in the case of an EFI engine the majority of the engine management wiring harness can be used unaltered complete with relevant multi-plugs / connectors and sensors. Temporarily insulate and secure any connection that cannot be made. Thoroughly check all electrical and engine running systems fuel lines etc, fit battery, the battery can be fitted anywhere the builder chooses, the most common positions are behind the rear bulkhead on the left hand side or at the front of the passenger side footwell. Note, if the battery is to be fitted inside the cars occupant area it should be a “sealed”or “gel” type of battery which does not emit any fumes or vapour. In the case of a Type 3 body Triking a means of dis-connecting the rear section of  the wiring harness when removing the body tail section will be required ,any form of multi plug connector with sufficient wires can be utilised, (A std type trailer 7 pin connector/socket works very well) , The engine can now be started and test run. Check for any associated problems, check operation of gear box, gear linkage, clutch and brakes, when satisfactory the car can be lowered onto its wheels and driven to test the other mechanical functions. When satisfactory, remove rear exhaust sections and expansion boxes.

Fit windscreen wiper motor to mounting flange on body (optional) using 2 x M6 bolts and PU adhesive or fibreglass compound. At this stage it is also much easier to install the wiper link arms which can then be tested and adjusted as necessary.  It is possible to fit the wiper mechanism after the body is fitted to the chassis but it is an awkward job as the access is somewhat restricted, It is also sometimes neccessary to cut an access hole in the glovebox top (if fitted)

Tip4 Test run before body fit

To fit body (assuming the body has already been fettled and test fitted to achieve a satisfactory fit) roughen the powder coated areas of the chassis which will be in contact with body. Thoroughly remove any dust and grease. Apply polyurethane adhesive/sealer sparingly to mating surfaces (this can be either chassis or body) Lower body onto chassis. Fit rear chassis to body bulkhead. Ensure body sits straight and true, secure in place while adhesive cures, this can be done with straps and or clamps etc. It may help at this stage to temporally set in place bonnet and boot lid on the body to ensure accurate location/shape

When cured apply further adhesive to any gaps as required, pay particular attention to lower edges and areas subject to ingress of water and debris.

Re fit exhaust system, fit front mudguard stays and bond mud guard blades in position using the same procedure as body fitting. During this process it may help to have the wheels in place as a guide to locate the mudguard blades. Triking mudguard stays are supplied a generous length and undrilled , this is to provide the neccessary adjustment to accomodate different size tyres they should be drilled to suit the 4 mounting holes in the front suspension uprights and can be shortened by removing material from the upright end of the stay if desired. Ensure adequate clearance for wheel rotation and or possible larger / maximum tyre size.

Fit rear lights and connect wiring, fit bonnet and boot lid and relevant fixings of choice, For the type 2 body we use 6mm bolts accessed from inside the car, which engage with captive nuts bonded to the inside of the bonnet and boot. In the case of type 3 body both front and rear sections are retained by M6 csk bolts accessed from outside face of the panels, these fixings are supplied as std and can either be used permanently or temporarily used for location purposes then replaced by conventional catches/latches etc.

Temporarily fit interior.

Please note-

If fitting the full Triking touring windscreen prior to the MSVA test, to comply with the MSVA test it is necessary to also fit windscreen wipers, washers and a demister.

At this stage the vehicle is ready to be presented for a MSVA test if required (UK only) contact us for further details.

After successful completion of MSVA test (or equivalent etc) painting and final fitting can be done.

Paint all bodywork, front mud guards are best painted when removed from the car. We apply a stone chip protective coating to the inside of the boot lid, and front mudguards. Also on the outside lower approx 50mm of main bodyshell. This is then over painted with the final colour choice. Alternatively the bodyshell can be painted prior to fitting it to the chassis

Fit windscreen glass, frames and wipers (optional). Touring type windscreens can be bonded in place using either PU sealer (same as the body / chassis attatchment) or std good quality glazing silicone

Fit interior and tonneu/cockpit cover (optional).  The cockpit trim surround is supplied partially trimmed as std, it can be bonded in place with PU sealer or heavy duty waterproof silicone sealer, the return edge of the trim material can then wrapped around the curvature of the cockpit and glued directly to the GFRP inside with waterproof contact adhesive.

General Notes

Due to the normal bedding in process of mating faces (particularly on powder coated surfaces) on new components and fixings we recommend thorough checking and tightening as necessary of all components once driving commences.

After approx 500 miles have been driven it is a good idea to check and adjust as neccessary – front wheel bearings, the steering tracking, camber (and if available castor) there is usually a noticeable amount of settling in the suspension due to the nature of the bushes used.

It may be noticed that a newly built Triking has a distinctive “tight” feel to the steering, this is entirely normal and is due to the high quality nylon type joints and steering components used ,

The bedding in process also affects the GFRP body panels, Initially the panels can be allowed to contact their respective mating surfaces untill they have stabalised, then self adhesive foam tape can be applied as neccessary form a satisfactory seal. In the case of the Type 3 body with removable tail section, a short length of alloy angle or similar material can be bonded or riveted to the central locating socket area to retain the tail section once the fixing bolts / catches are removed, this make removing the rear section an easier operation with minimal chance of damage / slippage when lifting it off.

Moto Guzzi EFI engines generally have a definative “flat spot” around 3000 rpm this is a deliberate MG design characteristic intended to improve exhaust gas emissions,  consequently it is recommended that a recently built Triking with an EFI engine be checked /set up by a Moto Guzzi dealer/service agent with suitable diagnostic / tuning facilities, Additionally performance/driveability can be improved significantly by fitting an aftermarket fuelling device such as a Power Commander.  Triking have developed a bespoke software map for the Power Commander which provides the correct fuelling adjustments for a typical Guzzi EFI engine. The map is available from Triking free of charge.

Carburrettored engines should also be checked / tuned after the Triking build is completed.

Moto Guzzi gearboxes while very strong are notorious for a design characteristic “clunky” gearchange feel and noise , this noise can be amplified by the Triking transmission tunnel. and some vibration can be noticed through the gearlever when changing gear .   If desired soundproofing material can be installed between the chassis and the transmission tunnel cover. Also synthetic type gear oil can help to make the gearboxes quieter, and, smoother.

Most std type Moto Guzzi rear shocks can be used satisfactorily on a Triking ,provided they are not too bulky as they can potentially be an interference on the right hand side adjacent to the fuel tank.

There is a range of suitable front tyres readily available from any good motorcycle factors, for normal road driving the “classic” or traditional type motorcycle tyre with a flatter type of tread provides good handling characteristics with a practical wear rate. Recommended front tyre pressure is 12 – 14 PSI

The std Moto Guzzi rear wheel is designed to accommodate a round section motorcycle type tyre which is not ideal for a Triking, mainly due to its minimal road contact area. this type of tyre will have a relatively high wear rate, Where available a more square section type tyre should be used. or a Triking type 15″ rear wheel fitted, (enables fitment of a car type rear tyre and reduces overall gearing slightly) Recommended rear tyre pressure is   ,,   33 PSI for the bike type rear tyre (typically 17″ or 18″ dia)     OR  25 PSI for 15″ tyres.

Std Triking/Grimeca front brake calipers are supplied with a std “road” basic grade of brake pad, Two upgraded pad compounds are available ,,, a “Fast Road” and a “Racing” All pad grades are suitable for both brake disc types – the std Triking/ Grimeca and the Triking/PFM race type ductile iron , Note that the Triking/PFM high performance ductile iron brake discs will develop a slight oxidation (rust) if exposed to damp/moisture, this is entirely normal and will be removed by the pads within the first few seconds of use.