Clonk Warning Light for Guzzi gearboxes ?
25/07/2017 at 11:49 am #11571
Driving the Triking reminds me of what it used to be like driving my old Lotus Elan Sprint. Some days it would seem I could get everything right and eliminate surging caused by the doughnuts on the drive shafts winding up and down on acceleration and other days progress down the road would be like that of a pigeons head when it struts about. The Triking is like that if not more so….
At the traffic lights grand prix the back can rear up like a startled pony when trying to out drag cheeky young whippersnappers with their drainage pipe sized exhausted Fiestas and I’m now wondering whether to seek the skills of a horse whisperer or perhaps undergo hypnotism or even study for many years under a gearbox master in the elusive search for smoothness and precision when changing gear.
I’m reminded of that saying “he who would have much to do, let him fit out a ship or a woman” when it comes to mastering the silent gear change on the Triking, just when you think you’ve got it sussed the next change down sounds like the cogs are attempting to escape from the casing or maybe the gears are fighting each other as to who is to be selected next. I’m already using ear plugs to muffle the sound but I’m thinking if I ran with unbaffled silencers and had a light warning that the next change down will sound like all the teeth are being stripped off the cogs then a good blip of the throttle would mask it admirably as I coasted to a stop. What do you think ?
25/07/2017 at 6:10 pm #11576
Sounds like your selector barrel needs re-shimming in the gearbox. There has been discussion on here, try a search for gearbox re-shimming.
There is also a very comprehensive guide to carrying out the shimming available in pdf format (not something we can file on the Triking site).
I have a copy somewhere on my hard drive so can email you a copy if you want to have a go.
Having said that, you will never get a perfect clunk free gearchange with a Guzzi 5 speed box. (imho)
You could try not rushing the change and getting the revs correct with a blip of the throttle when changing down.
25/07/2017 at 6:46 pm #11579
Thanks Tony, I will probably strip the gearbox and re-shim it sometime, maybe this winter. It’s not actually as bad as I’ve made out – it was an attempt at humour following your post for more comment on the forum 🙂
Are you sure about pdf files, because I uploaded a pdf file of my roll bar drawing some time ago….
25/07/2017 at 6:48 pm #11580
25/07/2017 at 7:34 pm #11582
That’s the one Dave.
I re-shimmed Edith during her winter service which improved smoothness quite a bit, but it will never be perfect, it’s a Guzzi box, built for a tractor.
So, pdf’s work on here. I must keep up.
25/07/2017 at 10:54 pm #11584
Used the same procedure from the pdf when I did mine. Took two attempts to get it right as too tight the first time and I have done this to many MG boxes. I find it best to pull the gear change lever and hold it for say a second in full aft or forward. Almost perfect change (for a Guzzi) every time. Definitely blipping the throttle as already stated makes a huge difference and do not come to a stop and then try and change down.
26/07/2017 at 2:32 pm #11585
I take it you are blipping the throttle on down-changes and also not trying to stop at a junction in 4th then changing down to 1st whilst at a standstill?
26/07/2017 at 6:23 pm #11586
Yes on down changes same as riding a bike.
Makes a difference as shaft/gear speed are closer.
26/07/2017 at 8:27 pm #11588
If I pause briefly when changing up it’s generally very good and most of the time a blip on the throttle changing down it’s the same – I’m just a perfectionist with gear changes I guess. 🙂 Also, my orginal post was deliberately over stating the case.. 😉
But thanks for the suggestions..
28/07/2017 at 11:59 am #11598
It’s a job I’ve put off doing; however, I might have a go at it this winter. I want to take the engine out a spruce it up a bit with a repainted job so a good time to play with the gearbox. Now some information is required, what shims do I need and are they special, or is it just a case of getting the right sized shimming washer? If it’s the latter, what size shims do I need, external and internal dimensions? An idea on the range of thicknesses would also help?
If they are special, what do I need to purchase?
I guess it would be a good time to replace seals and check bearings for wear.
I ask these questions so I can get the parts prior to dismantling, to limit the downtime and bits left lying around my very limited working space!
Remember, knowledge is power. 😉
28/07/2017 at 8:44 pm #11601
Shims are sold in various thicknesses. ).6, 0.8, 1, 1.2 They have a Guzzi part Number/s. You will need a selection I cant advise which as all different. You have to shim the drum in an empty box to remove end float.
I order mine from MG Cycle in the US, but should be able to get from UK.
You will need a new gearbox rear cover gasket. Also rear output shaft seal and o-ring, input shaft seal.
The out put shaft nut is partly held by a single ball bearing so do not loose! The nut is peened into output shaft keyway to secure, but never been a problem to get out or reuse.
It needs a special spanner to remove the input shaft nut, but as the pdf says can be made (I made mine from a length of tube) An extra long socket is needed to remove output shaft nut, but all explained in the pdf.
Not a hard job, but a pain getting the shafts out and especially back in.
I usually change the clutch push rod seals whilst apart.
29/07/2017 at 12:11 am #11602
Thanks Steve, I’ve already made up a socket to remove the nut from the output shaft, it was information on the availability of the shims that was my main concern.
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