- 11/04/2017 at 9:02 pm #10966
Broke down again with a blown fuse. Three times in as many years but I have only just realised when one fuse blows usually total melt, everything stops. That cannot be right can it? What have I got wrong? Lighting fuse tonight, last twice indicator fuse. All suggestions ( to the problem) grat fully received.
- 11/04/2017 at 9:32 pm #10967
If a fuse blows, something is wrong.
Is your wiring based on the standard Triking wiring loom detailed on the wiring diagram standard issue from Al?
The blown fuse will tell which circuit is at fault. First points to check would be mechanical chafing/pinching giving a short circuit.
When fuse is blown, is the engine totally dead?
You have fuel injected engine Richard, is there still some Guzzi wiring and fuses in existence?
The loom produced by ElecticAl , who supplies to Triking, which I suspect you have on your car, does not have fusing to the ignition circuit.
If the wiring is non-standard, then a thorough tracing of the circuit would be prudent, in order to see what is going wrong.
If you don’t have a copy of the standard loom, let me know and I’ll send you a copy.
Help is at hand, cheers.
- 12/04/2017 at 9:44 am #10972
Thank you Tony,
Yes you have supplied a wiring diagram, I’ll have to set to and take a look at the circuits. The first one though is the Hazard Warning as lots of things light up when the indicators are on.
There appears to be no damage on the surface at least. The Indicators blew twice in two years and everything goes off when any fuse blows.
- 12/04/2017 at 3:27 pm #10974
Hard to respond precisely without seeing a wiring diagram but some questions spring to mind:
Are the fuses the correct rating for the circuit load ?
If lots of things light up when the hazard warning lights are on then it sounds like there might be some crossed or miswiring. You could try
removing a wire at a time on that circuit to see if it’s the left or right hand side indicator wiring that’s giving the problem.
I would expect only the circuit that the fuse protects to be dead, not the whole electrical system. You could experiment by removing a fuse at a time and seeing what happens to try and home in on the problem.
Has everything got a decent earth return? On my Triking I ran most of my earth wiring back to a couple of main locations rather than relying on the chassis as a return.
Does the Triking have a voltage stabiliser and if so is it working ? Do you have a voltmeter so you can measure the alternator output when the engine is running ?
With this sort of intermittent problem a simple step by step process logging what you’ve done is the best approach as it’s easy to get bogged down in the complexities of wiring and forget what you’ve done already (apologies if I’m teaching you to suck eggs!)
- 12/04/2017 at 7:52 pm #10981
Go you ahead peakrock, boil them eggs. I need all the help I can get when it come to electrics.
- 12/04/2017 at 11:32 pm #10983
Richard and Pat,
The auto industry is one of the best at making electrics complicated! They take a bunch of simple circuits and draw them all together. Lately Chrysler has started separating them which is much better.
If you have the wiring diagram pick a single circuit such as one indicator light, on a print color the wire all the way back through the switch flasher to fuse in say yellow. As you check a wire (with battery disconnected at the isolator switch is good enough) from point to point recolor in say green. A test light or buzzer helps to check as does a multi meter to check for breaks. The other thing is to check for joints with other wires that are not shown on the diagram. Also check that any linking of power to fuses is done on the battery side not the device side. There should be a feed wire from either the battery (may be a few wires joined together at the starter motor battery terminal or from the ignition switch, but not both joined together. Note the hazards should be direct from a battery feed (starter motor) whereas the indicators are through the ignition switch or should be.
I think you may have a wrong connection at the hazard switch as on my diagram the indicators are fed through the hazard switch (ignition switched power) whereas the hazards are direct from battery power.
When I rewired my series 1 the hazard switch was the most complicated to sort out which terminals to use. (changed the switches from rocker type to toggle.
Hope some helps give you some places to look as very difficult without being there.
- 23/04/2017 at 12:48 pm #11081
Thank you Steve,
New development this morning: removed several fuses one by one yet all other systems with fuse in place worked yet when breakdown occurs everything goes out. ???? More work tomorrow. Thank you for the info Steve I have printed it off to add to my info file for Squeaker.
Watch this space I re Fuse to give up.
- 23/04/2017 at 2:44 pm #11083
If everything goes out try looking at the main Chassis to Battery earth or main supply wire from the Battery. Probably some light corrosion if intermittent.
- 24/04/2017 at 1:37 am #11085
Just a thought, my battery isolator switch is a bit dodgy sometimes and requires toggling to make contact. If corroded a fault could cause loss of power. Just another place to try.
- 25/04/2017 at 10:04 am #11088
Thank you all. Lot’s of things to try.
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