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forum forum Technical shift linkage and clutch arm

This topic contains 6 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  eclecticeric 11 months, 1 week ago.

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  • #11632


      Just spent the afternoon wrestling the 1100cc Bassa engine/transmission into the front of the Green Beast Build. Two immediate questions:
      One: The clutch arm impacts the side of the transmission tunnel. There is a hole in the tunnel I(nearby) which appears like it could “contemplate” the arm sticking through into the RH footwell (which might make sense for a RH drive but I’m LH). In any case, the arm doesn’t line up with that hole (behind it). Do I need to cut the side of the tunnel to provide an area of relief and, if someone else has done so, can you pull a pic for me. Also, through and where do you route the clutch cable since you are essentially looping over to the LH foot well.

      Two: The shift linkage on the back of the transmission (first link) really looks like it should be reversed so it centers on the transmission (and therefore lines up with the triangle on the end of the shifter arm/main linkage. Anyone done that or is there some machination there that I haven’t thought through.

      The build continues

    • #11633

        Hi Brian
        The clutch operating arm does stick through the hole a little bit. It’s there to make life easier getting the clutch cable on.
        Is the operating lever on the rear of the gearbox adjusted correctly, ie not binding up on the casing too soon?
        I seem to remember (getting cloudy) that there may be a ball bearing at the end of the clutch push rod, forward of the thrust bearing, but I CANNOT find any reference to one being fitted in any parts list nor even Guzziology. So perhaps forget that. But if there should be one, it would throw out the whole position of the operating arm.
        Now is a good time to make sure the arm pivot is greased and free moving, a real pain if it seizes.
        The clutch cable will loop up over the top of the gearbox (over the chassis front cross panel) to a suitable anchor hole (may need to drill your own to match clutch pedal arm with straight pull of cable). Not sure weather it needs a longer cable than rhd.
        The shift arm will need to be fitted horizontally, so that the adjustable push rod from the triangle is vertical. Seem to recall welding a bit onto the shift arm to get it to be in the right place.
        Hope I haven’t confused you!

      • #11634
        Richard and Pat
        Richard and Pat

          Re cable routing: When locating hole for cable stop make sure the cable does not get fouled by the clutch pedal in its full throw. I made two opposing wedges to angle the cable at the pedal pivot point.

        • #11635


            What type of Triking body do you have – on my Type 2 , LHD, with a Bassa engine, the clutch lever lines up nicely with the hole in the bodywork (see photo). As far as the clutch cable is concerned , I kept it at it’s original length. looped it over the RH cylinder head and back to the left hand corner of the footwell. I’ve started the engine, but so far haven’t tried using the clutch – will probably have to cut an inch or two off the threaded clutch pedal rod for clearance. I rotated the gear shift lever until it’s at the 3 o’clock position. I haven’t driven it yet, so can’t guarantee any of this will work 🙂


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          • #11640

              Hello Eric.
              Possibly a word of caution from my experience and looking at your images. I fitted my Clutch cable outer to finish only 75mm above where the nipple fitted in the pedal. This caused to much sideways tension when operating the clutch and regular cable breakages. I then shortened the outer sleeve by approx. 150mm. This reduced the angles and the cable has not broken since. Only my experience.
              Thanks Mark

            • #11641


                Thanks for your input Mark. How does one go about shortening the cable – do you unsolder or cut off the nipple, pull the sleeve out some, then cut it off and solder the nipple back on ? I’ve been reluctant to change cable lengths as I worry about how easy it is to unsolder a nipple, and how strong a joint a soldered nipple is, especially if I do it.

              • #11643


                  Hi again, Mark – I just discovered that, of course, there are various videos on youtube showing how to reduce the length of clutch cables, etc., so you don’t have to waste time trying to enlighten me on this topic. I need to remember that most things can be found on the internet, so I don’t usually need to ask for info. here unless it’s Triking – specific 🙂

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