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forum forum Technical Type 4 Triking – Wiring and Instruments

This topic contains 2 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by Musselermark Musselermark 1 week, 2 days ago.

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  • #13311


      For those of you dreaming about, thinking about or contemplating building a Type 4 Triking this may help you to make some decisions about the dashboard instruments and wiring you can use. The CARC bike engines are more difficult to integrate into a Triking than the earlier big-blocks because they have a more integrated electrical system that is less accommodating for re-use. This post gives a few details of what is possible and I hope to put a longer (groan) and more thorough version in the T4 build guide shortly.

      I have been involved on the periphery of the T4 design, adapting the engine EFI system to work in the car. This is not a definitive list of all possible variations but covers the most likely options people will want to try and indicates some of the issues that arise from different choices.

      Wiring options.

      Using the bike loom “as is” is NOT an option. Everything is in the wrong place mainly because in the bike the ancillaries are above the engine whereas in the Triking they are behind the engine.

      The easiest option, especially for those who are not electrically blessed, is to use the standard T3/T4 wiring loom for the car and add the Triking EFI loom for the engine. The two looms graft together quite easily and all of the fancy multi-plugs for the engine and ECU are done for you.

      Using the bike loom as a donor for connectors and then doing your own wiring is OK if you’re happy with soldering lots of wires together and using heat shrink sleeving to sheath them – because that’s the only practical way to cope with the multi-plugs. In-line crimps are way too big and don’t even think about using Scotchlok connectors. You will also have to do a bit of creative circuit modification to get the lights operating in a way suitable for a car rather than a bike and its a good idea to modify the starting system so the ECU is not involved.

      Instruments options.

      Again, the easiest option is to use the standard Triking instruments (available in a variety of sizes and forms) which will work directly with the car wiring loom and the EFI loom. An air pressure sensor (APS-1) will supply the missing information usually sent to the ECU from the Guzzi dashboard and will deal with any immobiliser issues.

      If you choose to use the Guzzi dashboard then you MUST use the Guzzi immobiliser system. This consists of an “aerial” around the top of the ignition switch which communicates with a chip in the key. You do not have to use the Guzzi ignition switch but the key must be in close proximity to the aerial. To be able to use the system you must have at least two items from the following:- Main ignition key; Second ignition key (not a clone); The bike’s User Code. Without these you will be unable to setup or bypass the immobiliser in the event of key failure.
      When connected to the Guzzi dashboard the engine ECU will not work unless the immobiliser is happy.

      The Guzzi dashboards come in different flavours according to the bike, but basically are either the smaller unit (Griso, Stelvio) with an analogue tacho and digital speedo, or the larger unit (other bikes) with three analogue dials. The connections and menu operations are subtley different for each bike so you will need to study the wiring diagrams and operating manuals carefully to work out what switches you need to make them work. All of the dashboards will give you neutral and main beam indicators along with system malfunction and oil pressure warnings. The indicators and hazard lights are driven by electronics in the dashboards, but again, the operation of these is different for the various versions on different bikes. Fuel gauges are present in some dashboards (not on Griso and only just on early Stelvio) but are not compatible with the VDO dip-tube used in the T4 tank.

      The dashboard communicates with the engine ECU via a 2-wire CANBUS system which relays messages in both directions. The ECU sends information on engine and road speed, fuel consumption, gear selection and engine status to the dashboard; the dashboard feeds information on air pressure and immobiliser status to the ECU. The ABS system (on bikes that are so fitted) integrates via the dashboard but is easily bypassed in the Triking where it is not used.

      That’s enough for this post – I am happy to answer questions if I am able and will add more info if required.


    • #13316

        thanks John, your expertise is welcome. Looking forward to more tips as they surface.

      • #13317

          Excellent information John. Another layer of complexity explained. I plan to use Bike loom as a start point with original Norge clocks. I look forward to tips and advice.
          Thanks Mark

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