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I’ve been asked several times for details of how I constructed my hood, so here goes. Click on pictures to enlarge.

This second one made for Edith (pictured before the paint job)was nearly identical to the first for Florence.

Materials: Frame – all stainless steel, hood material – mohair.

When taken off, the entire hood goes into 2 zipped bags to stow away behind the seats.



There are 2 fixing points either side on the chassis side rails. During the bare chassis stage, I welded short tubes into the chassis rails so as not to weaken the rails.

The side piece bolted to the chassis forms a socket for the uprights, spaced away from the rails to avoid crushing the body shell. Welded up from offcuts of 12 tube and 2mm sheet


The frame is made up of 12mm x 1mm wall s/s tube:

2 short vertical side struts

2 double curved side hoop assemblies

2 nearly straight centre pieces

1 long back to front piece (10mm, also used as joiners for 12 tube)


The hoop pivot pieces were welded up from scraps of 2mm & 12mm tube. A stop prevents the front hoop drooping too low.

To bend the hoops I cut out a piece of 12mm mdf to a slightly smaller radius than required for the bend, screwed this to a base board with another capping piece 10mm bigger than the radius piece. Keep the tube longer than needed, anchor one end down then pull the tube round the radius. (Not easy!)

The flattened ends were heated up cherry red then clamped in the vice (plain jaw). Needed a couple of goes.



The centre front mount relies on a bolt through the screen mount, a gap between the glass is essential if the glass is toughened. Laminated glass could be ground out to form a hole but trying to drill is a no-no.



The side front mounts are hood studs. The ones I used were plated brass so was impossible to weld/braze/solder to the stainless bracket. Any nut on the inside would have interfered with the glass fitting. So I drilled a hole, countersunk the inside with a dremmel and then run a blob of solder on the back of the stud, cutting excess off with the angle disk cutter.



All 3 of the front fixings used the type of stud that has to be pulled to release from the pin. Can’t blow off in the wind.

The centre  bracket is explained in the photos, bolting the material through the over-centre hook proved reliable, clamping the material.


To keep the hood in contact with the top edge of the glass when driving at speed, I fabricated the 3mm ally strips with outer mounting point welded on for the hook fixing,  also clamping the material when bolted together. The ally strips are then threaded into a tunnel sewn into the front edge of mohair material. The strip is kept short of the centre clamp to allow flexing and is clamped in position with the outer hook. (Use nyloc nuts on all fixings or they will fall off. I know about this!).


The hood material was sewn up by my local upholsterer, Ifor Evans. Splendid craftsman.

I can just get in by undoing the d/s side clip, a slightly larger person may need to undo the centre clip as well. All clips can be fastened from inside the Triking by the driver.


Two people getting in together will obviously have all 3 clips undone and the hood pushed back to the hoops.

The side screens are zipped in, starting at the lower back, use tonneau fixing studs at the bottom, then carry on zipping. If you have the hood and side screens on then it is probably raining so you will still need a vent gap at the front of the side screens to keep the screen clear!